This is the making process of "Art Nouveau style openwork akoya pendant necklace"

 

As usual I draw some sketches first. This is the final one. At this point a round openwork component behind the center pearl is geometric. But I changed my mind soon. The sketches are always black and white so colors are not expressed here. But of course there are colors in my mind. I think the center openwork should be black and the others are all gold. So I have to make the openwork component separately and fix it at the final step. Again I will use a support ring and rivets.

 

This is the draft of the openwork component. The reason why I changed the design is I thought it's better to give the design a specific meaning. I think the openwork will NOT be seen well when the customer wear the necklace because it touches the chest and there will be no gateway for the light because of the support ring. It will be seen only when the wearer leans forward and the pendant is suspended in the air. At this moment someone will see the openwork. It will be inspiring for him/her. And as my opinion if the design is specific, not abstract, it will be nicer.

 

The piercing is done. This component will be formed as a dome so that the pearl can be installed in it.

 

I'm confirming the fitting of the outer ring, the stopper ring, and the openwork dome. The stopper ring is a filigree. The openwork dome will be fixed between this and the support ring.

 

I'm adding grooves using a chisel and a small hammer. The interval is measured by eye. So if you look at carefully, you will find it is not so accurate.

 

The stopper ring and the receptacle of the pearl are soldered. And a part of the openwork's rim is cut out so that the receptacle can go through it. By the way the receptacle is a cast component and I made it by CAD. I often use it as a finial drop.

 

The outer Art Nouveau component is done. As other works it's made of two sheets and soldered.

 

The soldering is almost completed. I still need to solder small scrolls at the top. When I draw the sketch of this design, I thought about the rigidity of the bottom part. It should look like a thin wire at the last curve point but needs rigidity. When the customer takes off the necklace and puts it on a table, this part touches the table first and receive the impact. If it's really a thin wire, it will distort easily. So I soldered and bound two scrolls, one from rightward the other from leftward, and made a thick but narrow wire.

 

All fabrication is done. I added a small component to increse the width of the bottom line. It needs to be wide enough to support a pearl. I will polish it and apply garnet sand blasting to make the surface matte. And then it will be plated with 2micron thick 23K gold.

 

After the plating was done I applied fine gold leaf on it to create some shade and nuance again. Without it I think it will be boring. The akoyas are very beautiful. You might think it's ridicurous that I put a pearl at the bottom while I consider the rigidity of it. I know it. But it's life. Please hold the pendant by your hand and lay it down gently on a table when you put off it.

 

This is the completed piece.

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